Rain gutters are essential for many reasons. They help carry water away from the roof to the downspouts and away from your home. With rain gutters, you can prolong the lifespan of your roof, prevent foundation problems caused by water, and reduce the chances of flooding. Like all other home installations, gutters often get old and may need to be repaired or replaced. Whether you need a gutter repair service or a complete replacement, you should call on a professional to handle the job. However, if you are the handy type, you need a comprehensive ‘How-To guide.’ This article offers a step-by-step guide on DIY gutter installation.
For this guide, you will be using decorative cast-aluminum brackets and corrugated downspouts. The task is easy and requires minimal skills. You should expect to be done in 6 to 8 hours, depending on the size of your building and other factors.
Snap Layout Lines
- Mark a 1¼ inch space below the metal drip-edge flashing on the fascia. This is the highest point of the gutter run.
- Mark the low end of the gutter run, preferably at the end of the fascia or anywhere in between where a downspout will be located. Ensure that the slope of your gutter run shouldn’t be more than ½ inch per 10 feet of run
- Snap a chalk line between the highest and lowest point on the fascia.
Pro Tip: Inspect for rot on the fascia and make repairs before installing your gutters.
Attach Fascia Brackets
- Attach the fascia bracket to align with the highest and lowest points that have earlier been marked. The brackets are often 16 inches in the center.
- Place the fascia brackets at desired locations across the rafter tail and make a chalk mark.
- Make a ½ -inch diameter pilot hole through the fascia at the marked sections.
- Fasten the brackets at each hole location using a ¼-inch stainless steel lag screw.
Pro Tip: Rubbing soap on the lag screw makes its drive through the fascia and rafter tails easier.
Cut Gutters To Desired Length
- Cut the gutter to the desired length by using a 12-inch power miter saw fitted with a carbide-tipped finish blade or a hacksaw and aviation snips.
- Cut the gutter to the appropriate angle, usually 45 degrees, if it continues around a corner.
- If you require two gutter sections to make a lengthy run, overlap the gutters by 8-inches and tape using 3/8-inches long, self-taping, stainless steel screws. You can also use pop rivets.
Attach The End Caps
Attach the end caps at the end of each gutter using aluminum pop rivets. Hold the end cap in position temporarily as you drill a hole through it and into the gutter. Remove the temporary screw and replace it with a rivet to hold it in place.
Cut Downspout Holes
After installing the gutter, you should cut downspout holes at the desired location – usually at the low ends of the gutter. Make sure the holes are at least ¼-inch and at the center of the circular outline. Cut through the gutter with a 4-inch diameter hole saw fitted into a drill. A hammer and cold chisel can also do the job.
Place the gutter into the installed brackets so that the edge slips into the hook on the brackets. Drill a 3/16-inch hole through the screw-mounting hole into the gutter and secure the hole using a 1-inch long screw.
Form Strip-Miter Joint At The Corners
Cover the end corners with a strip miter no more than 3-inches wide. Secure the strip miter with sheet-metal screws or eight pop rivets. At the top of the strip miter, cut a section and fold it inward into the gutter’s inside.
You can now connect the downspouts to the outlets created using a pop rivet or screw to hold it in position. If you find the entire process long and boring or do not have the time to spare, contact professionals via https://www.gutterilla.com to get the job done.
Gutterilla – Seamless & Guards Installation
401 Congress Ave #1540
Austin TX 78701
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